Homemade table saw a thing on the economy is not so rare, and certainly useful. Make it possible with only basic skills working with metals, fitted under the bench table and orderly. Table saw with their own hands makes sense if you already have some reserve on materials: pieces of angle steel, rectangular tube profile, and especially the engine. Or Angle Drill.
The motor can be used to look / y on the “hardware” market, where they are not uncommon. The manual version of the manual grinder table saw with his own hands the easiest obtained if the economy is already a table Saw. It is enough to make just two simple improvement: a sliding emphasis and thrust lever. Sliding fence – two pieces of small metal brackets located on either side of the working bodies: a disc with teeth, mounted in place of the abrasive wheel. Gap – 4.3 mm on each side.
Horizontal parts of the edge you need to round out the bottom, so as not to cling to the workpiece. Corners need to connect the front and rear cross-linked. To do this, fit the bolts with nuts and washers give the desired clearance package. On housing Bulgarians put on a collar of the metal strip; Coil tie clip is below. To it is attached tightly folded in half strip of tin or galvanized with an opening at the rear of the sliding bolt lock.
Thus the back focus is secured. You can clamp the rear rack stop made as a unit, but the thickness of the metal strip when it should be at least 1 – 1.5 mm. Shifting provide clearance washers achieve the same gap between the working body and the sidewalls of the stop. Table Saw gear housing make two – four threaded holes for small screws (M3 – M5). Reducer must first understand and define the place where you can drill.
These holes need to attach a homemade axial handle. When using the standard side handle grinder to make a smooth propyl barely even a physically strong man with persistent labor skills. pila-bolgarka The axial handle is made of metal tubes or rods in the form of an upward forward horn or double lever width of the palm with some margin. The ends, which it will be attached to the gearbox, DO NOT spill and drill holes in them for the fixing bolts. If the ends of the spill mounting, the handle will bend with the effort at work. If the handle is in the form of horns, the distal end thereof is slop in the horizontal plane, and drill a hole in it at 4-6 mm from the axis of the stock, that is, 6-10 mm. If the handle – bracket below it in the same hole in the gearbox, fasten a piece of protruding forward rod or tube, and the end of his spill and drill a hole in it, as stated above.
Of course, between the rod and the bracket should be sufficient for the convenience of distance – 100-150 mm. Now take a piece of steel rod 4-6 mm. This will be an adjusting rod. One end is bent into a loop, and a little spill dosverlivaem hole under the front lock bolt. Selecting washers on the front end abutment achieve uniform gap width along its entire length. When the boom needed 6mm, most likely only two thin washers, one on each side.
On the “tail” of the threaded rod. Threaded “tail” will go into the hole on the handle, as described in the preceding paragraph. On his advance is screwed a nut, and after assembly – the second. Releasing and tightening the nuts alternately, you can adjust the depth of cut. A
ll hand-held table saw is ready for operation. Table Saw In this small-sized easy to turn by hand as described above, is made of round tubes or rods 14-20 mm base frame in the form of the letter “P” with the rocker arm on the crossbar. The lower ends of the frame are bent in the direction of the cut to the horizontal position and secured to the table with bolts or screws. For stability, you can make additional struts. On the horizontal cross member is put on the rocker arm in the form of a welded “T” tube. Its cross section (horizontal rod “T”), cut lengthwise in half, and after donning fasten straps. By the end of the vertical portion of the “T” also attract handsaw clamp described above. Such a device can be used as a cutting machine and by setting the regular cutting disc grinders, but not cut through the thickness exceeds 60-80 mm, depending on the diameter of the working body. To handle the “thick” lumber (timber, round logs) nuzhena already “real” table saw. The “real” stationary table saw table saw with their own hands – a design rather serious and it is necessary to undertake, as the thought of everything. Actually, stationary table saw and a table – this is the same thing; the difference is reduced to the height of the frame. Doing one or the other – it depends only on the nature of the workplace: the intensity of use and the area. For occasional work required reading is not very heavy drinking, mostly stored in the barn; constantly working with wood is more convenient to have a fixed master. Construction cirkularnaya-pila-svoimi-rukami Construction table saw is known enough and clear from the figure.
It is only necessary to give some explanations about the different subtleties. Let’s start from the top. Table. It must cover sheet or galvanized steel sheet. Wood on wood or plastic necessarily rubs in the middle of the table is formed broad shallow hole. Propyl will “play” and make dull propyl uniform depth will not work. Cross-links table is better to make a steel bracket of 60-80 mm with a horizontal shelf out. It is easier and easier to do the side fence. The working body (gear drive) and the motor. It should not protrude above the surface of the table for more than 1/3 of the diameter, or the saw will cut poorly, and will be very dangerous.
Therefore, if you want to cut timber of 100 mm, diameter of the disc need not less than 350 mm. But the drive of the drive motor need not less than 1kW; Disc 170 mm – 400 W (0.4 kW). It is necessary to compare the power of immediately available in stock or available engine to their needs. For lumber 150 mm or more to make a table saw is quite problematic. The adjustable side stop. A good fence is obtained from a piece of smooth steel bracket 60-80 mm 300-400 mm longer than the table. One of the shelves, which is then vertical, cut equally from each side, the length equal to the remainder of the table. Flat “tails” are bent down in the form of a horizontal letter “the U” width equal to the thickness of the table plus 10-15 mm. In the lower shelves «U» drill holes threaded M8 – M10 and cut it. We put emphasis on the table and fasten the bolts in the desired position. Exactly positive stop exhibiting a pattern, laid between it and the disk blade. Shaft. This is the most crucial node. Val need to sharpen in one set-up and assembly with a working body check at the centers. The slightest of his heartbeat at work will increase and the saw will go racing. The shaft of the finished pipe somehow fixed disk is invalid.
The best option – finished shaft with a seat for the disc. It can also spy on the “hardware” market. Bearings make better use of self-aligning ball bearings. In these two rows of balls, the cage and the inner surface has a curved sectional shape. Any other in makeshift saw quickly “will break.” Trunnion bearings have to do with covers that protect against sawdust and dust. Broadcast. The best option – V-belt. Stiff (pinion) is dangerous. If the wood will fall nail, then because of the inertia of the massive rotor motor drive may scatter. If one or both do pulley belt transmission with a minimum internal diameter (5/4 belt thickness), it will slip and play the role of an elastic belt damper. The flat belt is not as robust; their range is limited.
Gear ratio chosen, knowing the engine speed and the maximum speed of the drive. It contains either on the disk itself, or on the package. If the disc b / y, set the forward speed on its circumference of 70 m / s (a bear with a margin of any drive) and the diameter of the disc calculate the permissible speed. The disc 400 mm at 300-500 rev / min is well cut and would be reliable. For smaller diameters allowed the moment. Engine. The best option – a single-phase asynchronous from an old washing machine. Such a purpose made for homemade conveyers. The collector of the power of little use: they are too high speed, are not designed for continuous operation, have low efficiency and are susceptible to clogging. Three-phase motor suitable power can be used, but will have to fork out for starting and running capacitors with fittings. Capacitors – only paper and oil-paper (BM, MBM, MBGO, MBGP, etc.) Any other not withstand reactive power circulating in the circuit. Average working capacity – 100 uF / kW; starting C – twice. If, for example, used the engine at 600 W, then Cp = 60 uF; C = 120 uF.
Operating voltage – not less than 600 V. The trigger SB – button self-resetting. In no case do not use the toggle switch or button fixation! Forgetting to turn off – the engine can be damaged, but from a long extracurrent wiring cause a fire. cirkularnaya-pila-svoimi-rukami-shema scheme run on the three-phase motor 380 V single-phase 220 V, suitable for the “stars” and for the “triangle” and does not require its completion, is shown in the figure. Start-Up Procedure: include SQ; briefly, 1-3 to push SB; as soon as the engine is spun, let go. Sawing begin as soon as the engine picks up the pace; usually – for 5-20 seconds. If the engine spins up too long or badly drawn, it is likely to run capacitor deteriorated. There are “craftsmen” that avoids the biggest and most expensive C and spins the disc push the saw by hand. Explanation here from the point of view of common sense can be only one: the unconscious desire to arrange a car accident and left crippled. Finally, if you are using a three-phase industrial motor performance, it is necessary to make protective earth.